Taiwanese dumplings star at hit pop-up’s new East Bay restaurant

2022-06-04 02:39:31 By : Mr. james Qiu

Taiwanese-style pot stickers from Good to Eat Dumplings in Oakland.

Hit Taiwanese pop-up Good to Eat Dumplings has finally opened its first restaurant in Emeryville, bringing the East Bay a permanent place to eat its pan-fried dumplings, spicy noodles and other Taiwanese favorites.

Good to Eat Dumplings, among critic Soleil Ho’s picks for the best Chinese food in the Bay Area, quietly opened Thursday at 1298 65th St., Suite 1. It’s an exciting debut given how rare Taiwanese restaurants are in this part of the East Bay.

The restaurant is short-staffed so the menu will be limited until owners Tony Tung and Angie Lin can hire more people. For now, there will always be a dumpling, a noodle option and a few Taiwanese specials available. This week, for example, are a marinated pork chop over rice and lion’s head stew, pork meatballs and cabbage swimming in chicken broth. The pork chop, a classic Taiwanese dish, gets braised in spices and then quicky fried to give it a light crust.

Good to Eat is open 5-8 p.m. Wednesday through Friday and will eventually expand to Saturday and Sunday as well.

Tony Tung, chef and co-owner at Good to Eat Dumplings, inside Original Pattern Brewing in Oakland, prepares food earlier this year.

Although the restaurant is hamstrung by staffing, many new dishes are in the works, such as grilled tofu skewers and salted Taiwanese pork belly, a bacon-esque creation. Tung, who runs the kitchen while Lin oversees the front of house, has been fermenting local produce, including mustard greens and radish leaves, to incorporate into dishes. They partner with Radical Family Farms in Sebastopol to source seasonal Asian vegetables, such as Taiwanese tatsoi, a green lettuce similar to spinach, that gets sauteed with minced garlic for a simple side dish.

In homage to their longtime pop-up home at Oakland’s Original Pattern Brewing Co., they built a beer bar that will pour craft brews that pair with the food. Natural wine, which Lin said also goes well with Taiwanese food, is available as well.

The dining room is light and airy, with 24 seats inside and 16 seats on a small outdoor patio. A large open kitchen means diners can watch cooks crisping up dumplings and mixing noodles.

The space has been years in the making for Tung and Lin, who started Good to Eat Dumplings in 2017 by serving pot stickers at Oakland’s Eat Real Festival. They spent four years hunting for a permanent space while building a loyal following at Original Pattern with their elongated, crispy-bottomed dumplings filled with chicken and basil. They had hoped to open the Emeryville restaurant by the end of 2021 but faced delays.

“It’s (been) a very long journey for us,” Lin said. “We really want to be a neighborhood spot.”

The Original Pattern pop-up will continue Wednesday through Sunday, though under a new name and pared-down scope. Now called BaoHous, the menu will be limited to noodles and fluffy bao sandwiches filled with marinated rib eye steak or crispy tofu. Dumplings and more elaborate Taiwanese dishes will be available only at Good to Eat’s restaurant.

Good to Eat Dumplings. 5-8 p.m. Wednesday-Friday. 1298 65th St., Suite 1, Emeryville. goodtoeatdumplings.com

Elena Kadvany is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: elena.kadvany@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @ekadvany

Elena Kadvany joined The San Francisco Chronicle as a food reporter in 2021. Previously, she was a staff writer at the Palo Alto Weekly and its sister publications, where she covered restaurants and education and also founded the Peninsula Foodist restaurant column and newsletter.