Where to Eat Now in Minneapolis and St. Paul, According to the Experts - Mpls.St.Paul Magazine

2022-09-24 00:09:30 By : Mr. Tao Lee

Behind the Burgeoning Filipino Food Scene

We asked hospitality insiders—chefs, bartenders, line cooks, wine sellers, event gurus, and more—where they like to eat and drink in their off time in the Twin Cities. Here’s your industry guide.

by Stephanie March, Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl

“The shrimp toast at Hai Hai. It’s just so unbelievably satisfying. I think about that dish late at night, early in the morning, and sometimes in the afternoon. I’m not supposed to eat wheat but cannot control myself around that one. It’s a must-try.” 2121 University Ave. NE, Northeast, Mpls. —Jon Wipfli, smoker maintenance, Animales BBQ

“Dragon’s Milk braised beef rib at George and the Dragon. Such an undersung comfort dish from a great neighborhood pub.” (813 W. 50th St., Lynnhurst, Mpls.)

—Molly Herrmann, Event Guru, The Market at Malcolm Yards

Photo by Earth Girl Creative

“Crab and sea bean salad at Snack Bar.” 800 Washington Ave. N., North Loop, Mpls. —Tim McKee, James Beard Award–winning chef-at-largeSuch a fan favorite at dearly departed Burch Steak that Isaac Becker brought it back to Snack Bar.

“Bone-in ribeye from Manny’s Steakhouse. If you’re going to go for big and beefy, just go for the best. Perfectly charred luxury on a bone.” (825 Marquette Ave. S., downtown Mpls.)

—Stephanie March, eater in chief, Mpls.St.Paul Magazine

“Persian beef pizza at Black Sheep is comfort food for this Arab man in pizza format. The spice, the textures, the crust, yeeeeeesh!” North Loop and Eat Street —Sameh Wadi, part-time ice cream scooper and rice bowl slinger at Milkjam and World Street Kitchen

“Wrecktangle Pizza.” LynLake, North Loop, and The Market at Malcolm Yards —Ben Feltmann, chef de cuisine at Mr. Paul’s Supper Club

“Any pizza at Young Joni.” 165 13th Ave. NE, Northeast, Mpls. —Jennifer Lueck, owner of LUSH and Betty and Earl’s

“Kramarczuk’s combination platter: one cabbage roll, three pierogi, one sausage, and a side of my choice, which is sauerkraut. I grew up going here since before birth. Next-best Polish meal next to Grandma’s.” (215 Hennepin Ave. E., Northeast, Mpls.)

—Anthony Holznagel, Bka DJ Phat, Aka Phatphood

“Pho chin, AKA ‘well done brisket’ pho, at Pho 79 in Minneapolis. I consume more of that dish on a regular basis than all other foods combined. I’m fucking addicted!” (2529 Nicollet Ave., Eat Street, Mpls.)—sameh wadi, part-time ice cream scooper and rice bowl slinger at Milkjam and World Street Kitchen

“The A1, Bun Bo Hue—substitute pho noodles—at Trieu Chau, or the Nem Nuong spring roll platter at MT Noodles.” TC: 500 University Ave. W., Frogtown, St. Paul / MTN: 8459 W. Broadway, Brooklyn Park 

—Peter Bian, dumpling guy at Saturday Dumpling Club

“The classic pho at Gion in New Hope.” 9418 36th Ave. N., New Hope   

—Ben Feltmann, chef de cuisine at Mr. Paul’s Supper Club

“Weekend ramen at Zen Box Izakaya.”602 Washington Ave. S., Mill District, Mpls. 

—Jake Larson, line cook, Sandcastle

“Monello’s Mike DeCamp is our pasta whisperer, conjuring tender, agile, delicate noodle art from flour. Please note, they now offer a ‘fresh pasta membership’ so you never miss a special creation.” (1115 2nd Ave. S., downtown Mpls.)—Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl, eater/drinker/writer, Mpls.St.Paul Magazine

“Calamarata with raw tuna at BLG.” 800 Washington Ave. N., North Loop, Mpls. 

—Jennifer Lueck, owner of LUSH and Betty and Earl’s

“Anything from Tenant. Their pasta dishes continue to impress, menu after menu.” 4300 Bryant Ave. S., Kingfield, Mpls. 

—Dylan Boerboom, chef, Boomin Barbecue food truck

“The mushroom cappelletti from ie Italian Eatery is like a big pasta hug for your stomach.” 4724 Cedar Ave. S., Nokomis, Mpls.

“Chawanmushi at Kado no Mise is a little like the heart of a crème brûlée, a little like a cloud, just a tremblingly ethereal construction of eggs, ginger, and whatever’s in season.”  (33 1st Ave N., North Loop, Mpls.)  

“Reuben at Mac’s Industrial.” 310 Hennepin Ave. E., Northeast, Mpls. —Kara Smith, bartender, P.S. Steak

“Ham and cheese croissant at Bellecour.” North Loop and Grand Ave. —Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl

“No need for arguing; just have your sandwich how you like: Philly cheesesteak at Tono Pizzeria.” St. Paul, Woodbury, Coon Rapids, and Maplewood —Stephanie March

“Oklahoma-style smash burger from LynLake Brewery.” 2934 Lyndale Ave. S., LynLake, Mpls. —Stephanie March

“Beef tartare nachos at Saint Dinette. A symphony of perfect flavors, textures, and aromas—I get it every time I go.” 261 E. 5th St., Lowertown, St. Paul —Erik Eastman, seller of ice, Minnesota Ice

“Whole fried snapper at Lat14. The red curry sauce has the perfect amount of sweet and spicy. It’s so full of flavor and just a perfectly cooked, flaky fish.” (8815 7th Ave. N., Golden Valley)

—Chaz Sandifer, founder of Lakeview Terrace Farmers Market

“Eggy’s Diner, and I always get chilaquiles, add chorizo.”120 W. 14th St., Loring Park, Mpls.

—Craig Kaiser, hot sauce king of Cry Baby Craig’s

“Cheng Heng in St. Paul—roast pork over rice (#26A) is simplicity done mind-blowingly well. It has an egg, so it counts as brunch.” 448 University Ave. W., Frogtown, St. Paul

—Pip Hanson, beverage director of O’Shaughnessy Distilling Co.

“The Corner Store egg sandwich from Alma. The ratio of egg to meat to cheese is godly.” 528 University Ave. SE, Marcy-Holmes, Mpls.

“Egg cream (NA) at Cecil’s Deli.” 651 Cleveland Ave. S., Highland Park, St. Paul —Kara Smith, bartender, P.S. Steak

“Terzo! Charlie Broder’s palate has shaped the wine program in the Twin Cities more than most people even know.” 2221 W. 50th St., Lynnhurst, Mpls. —Peter Campbell, chef/owner of Red Wagon Pizza —Erik Eastman, seller of ice, Minnesota Ice

“Calista, a savory sherry and gin cocktail at Cardamom created by Megan Luedtke. I love savory cocktails, and this one strikes the perfect balance of complex flavors that are interwoven into a really bright and accessible cocktail—just brilliant.” Walker Art Center, Mpls. —Erik Eastman, seller of ice, Minnesota Ice

“An ice-cold dirty martini anywhere, but Gianni’s in particular.” 635 E. Lake St., Wayzata—Jennifer Lueck, owner of LUSH and B&E

“Pepper Le Pew at Skaalvenn. Hands-down best cocktail.” 8601 73rd Ave. N., Brooklyn Park —Peter Bian, dumpling guy at Saturday Dumpling Club

“The Brawndo, Verde, or Moon Dog from Petite León. Travis Serbus deserves a ton of recognition for the quality and consistency of his work.” 3800 Nicollet Ave., Kingfield, Mpls. —Dylan Boerboom, chef, Boomin Barbecue

“Whatever is going on over at Dual Citizen is fire. The pilsner, what every brewer should be judged on, is puro pinche fuego! It’s on point! You never leave feeling like a cat pissed in your mouth. They are brewing exceptionally good beers.” 725 Raymond Ave., South St. Anthony Park, St. Paul —Jorge Guzmán, big queso at Petite León

“Tilia Bloody Marys—I’m addicted and consider myself ‘quite knowledgeable’ on the topic of Bloodies.” 2726 W. 43rd St., Linden Hills, Mpls. —Trent Taher, cohort at Craftmade Aprons

“MADhaus at Mara.” 245 Hennepin Ave., downtown Mpls. —Trish Gavin, drinkstress, Eat Street Crossing

“A swimming pool of Beluga vodka at Moscow on the Hill gets me through winter. Martini Mondays, people—make it a thing.” 371 Selby Ave., Cathedral Hill, St. Paul —Nick Rancone, owner of Revival

Tartare at Owamni: Raw bison, blueberries, edible wildflower petals—this is not just a bison tartare; this is an edible understanding of the glory of creation. (420 S. 1st St., Mill District, Mpls.)

“Shawarma at Ariana in SLP.” 7115 Cedar Lake Rd., St. Louis Park—Trent Taher, cohort at Craftmade Aprons

“Billy Sushi is an event in and of itself, but at least once, splurge on the Wagyu nigiri.”116 1st Ave. N., North Loop, Mpls.—Stephanie March

“The Bulldog for a chili cheese dog.” Lowertown, Uptown, and downtown Mpls.

—Bill Summerville, host with the most, Chez Bill

“So sad in the boondocks, but dirty eating is the grilled cheese and prime rib at Haskell’s Port of Excelsior—grab a good wine at Haskell’s liquor store to complement.” 1 Water St., Excelsior

—Heather Manley, owner, Crooked Water Spirits

“Nightingale for burgers, wings, and deviled eggs.” 2551 Lyndale Ave. S., Lowry Hill, Mpls.

—Yia Vang, chef and sauce maker, Union Hmong Kitchen

“The croissants at Black Walnut. A very small number of people are aware of how amazing they are. They are ridiculous. I would gather to say one of the best in the country…. The time and effort [Sarah Botcher] puts into her work is impeccable.” 3157 Hennepin Ave. S., Uptown, Mpls. —Jorge Guzmán, big queso at Petite León

“The lightness of mascarpone mousse and the banana flavor you only get by roasting is the roasted banana tart at Rustica.” Uptown and Edina —Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl

“Peanut Butter Puppy Chow Luxe Shake at Bebe Zito.” Lowry Hill and Malcolm Yards —Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl

"The mixed curry at Himalayan Restaurant. Pair it with an order of Kathmandu momos and some garlic naan—it's fucking perfection and comfort." (2910 E. Lake St., Longfellow, Mpls.)

—Eliesa Johnson, owner and photographer at The Restaurant Project

Birria quesadilla from Las Cuatro Milpas. I know the tacos are the trend, but you have to understand that a certain amount of overflowing cheese crisps on the griddle with a quesadilla, and that’s magic time. (E. Lake and Bloomington)  

“Cucumber watermelon salad at Colita. It’s a newer dish, but they never disappoint at Colita! We fucking love being their neighbors, and DDP‘s creativity always delights. Not to mention their level of hospitality is on point.” 5400 Penn Ave. S., Lynnhurst, Mpls. —Peter Campbell, chef/owner, Red Wagon Pizza

“Beef Wellington at Paris Dining Club.” 414 3rd Ave. N., North Loop, Mpls.—Stephanie MarchThink ahead and celebrate your best weekend with no deadlines by getting this gorgeous hunk of refinery delivered from Jamie Malone’s Paris Dining Club.

—Ben Feltmann, chef de cuisine, Mr. Paul’s Supper Club

—Trent Taher, cohort at Craftmade Aprons

“Meteor has become my #1 bar. A place for an amazing cocktail, the vibe I want, and the faces I love to see. It can be a quick stop in or the perfect place to bring people for a night out!” (2027 N. 2nd St., Mpls.)—Eliesa Johnson, owner and photographer at The Restaurant Project

Food and Dining editor Stephanie March writes and edits Mpls.St.Paul Magazine’s Eat + Drink section. She can also be heard Saturdays on her myTalk107.1 radio show, Weekly Dish, where she talks about the Twin Cities food scene.

Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl was born in New York City little aware of her destiny—to live well in Minnesota. Dara writes about food, people, places, and now and then, things! She has five James Beard awards out of 13 nominations, and has won three CRMAs.

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